Post by bushmaster on Jul 28, 2020 17:52:28 GMT -5
Recently purchased custom flintlock at auction. The barrel appears to be pinned to stock in 4 places. Would like to disassemble and clean rifle. Can I simply take brass punch and knock out pins and if so does it matter which direction I remove them? Thanks
Don't use any punch that is larger in diameter than the actual pins themselves. I doubt the pins are tapered so it won't matter which direction you take 'em out or put 'em in.
On my last build I pinned the barrel to the stock, but I rarely remove the pins for cleaning. If I remove the pins then I also have to remove the tang screw in order to separate the tang\barrel from the stock. That's a lot of rig-a-moral for cleaning....and frankly, unless I've been hunting in a rain or snow, it's not necessary.
Thanks Dave, It does look like it's never been in the woods, but I would hate for any rust to form under barrel. It's got a 42" Octagon Green Mountanin barrel on it and the rifle is a little over 5' long. Really nice Kentucky. I'll post up a couple pics later.
Here's the front section of my Lehman flint build. Un-pinning the barrel each time it would need cleaned would be a true PITA. When I browned the barrel flats I simply ignored the flats that were under the wood. (Three flats IIRC) However, an application of a good quality gun grease.....not oil....when you re-pin it will give great protection of that section of barrel for the entire flintlock season.
Dave's exactly right. There's no need to take a barrel out of the stock to clean it. All of my flintlocks get a thorough cleaning after being out in the woods. I plug the touch hole and fill the breach with solvent and hot water, let stand a few minutes, and then proceed with cleaning patches until I'm satisfied the barrel is clean. A light coating of SS2 completes the barrel cleaning.
I do remove my lock every time I clean the rifle. I use a dremel tool with a burnisher to clean the outside, pan and frizzen. Q-tips help me clean the inside. A light coating of oil is applied before the lock is reinstalled. I give the wood under the lock a light spray of oil. I also clean my rifles mid-summer just to make sure there's no sign of rust.
If you HAVE to remove the barrel for any reason, punch the pins, remove the tang bolt, insert the ramrod into the barrel and leave about six inches protrude so that you have leverage, and carefully apply pressure upwards to release the barrel. The barrel will be tightest at the tang so work the barrel loose from both ends. Be very careful as I know a couple of fellows that have snapped the fore end in half doing so.
Acorn thanks for the cleaning tips and this is just what I'm going to do. I shot her for the first time today and I'm more than pleased with the flinter. Can't wait to take her out this winter. I will work up my powder load this fall. It's heavier than I'm use to but it balances really nice when I shoulder it.
I purchased a "drop in" Green Mt barrel for my T\C Hawken flinter as the factory barrel was simply not accurate. Best thing I did for that rifle. When I built my Leman I again went with a Green Mt .54 caliber and wasn't disappointed with it's accuracy.
My barrel is 36" long and 15\16ths across the flats. Funny thing about it is the .54 caliber barrel weighs less than the same length .50 caliber as the bigger bore means less metal remaining!!
If you feel it's heavy you could cut the barrel and re-crown it. That also requires cutting the full stock back as well so it's not a "simple" task but it is doable. I can't recall the weight savings.....but if you can weigh the barrel itself the next time you have it off....you can then get the oz\inch and do the math.
IIRC I went with the shorter barrel for the weight savings.
But you have a fine rifle there and it will serve you well for likely the rest of your life!! Congrats again!!